London so far (April 25-April 29)
The trip so far has been rather eventful. I'm taking it easy today to catch up on notes and photos, and this blog. Better now than trying to remember it all when I get back home.
Wed., Apriil 25: Arrive, get to lodgings in West Hampstead, get basics estabished, meet Nicole to see Becoming Jane, have a pint. Go home exhausted. My quick movie review here.
Thurs., April 26: Still jetlagged, decide to have a "light" day at the Victoria and Albert museum. See their standing architecture gallery, a small exhibition on James "Athenian" Stuart (a minor 18th century architect), and the miniatures gallery. Then decide to stay for lunch and see the Surreal Things exhibit, which is interesting, though its film component is disappointing because it fails to provide context and there is no designated space to sit and watch the clips–they're just projected over the "Surrealism and the Body" room.
Decide I can live without seeing the V&A's Kylie Minogue exhibit. Am proved correct.
Fri., April 27: No more jetlag. Head to Osterley Park,where I find out I'm not allowed to photograph the interior. I buy the illustrated guide to deal with the disappointment. Osterley has amazingly preserved 18th century interiors, including original carpets and furniture. The attention to detail is overwhelming, as is the thought that the mouldings and friezes on the walls were all done by hand. More Osterley photos (exteriors only, dammit) here.
Friday night I head out with Nicole and calamity befalls me. Well, not really. I must admit that I was rather calm about the theft, for two reasons: 1. I hadn't lost my most important possessions (camera, passport, cash, laptop) and 2. I'd already drank two pints of beer, making me pretty sedate.
Sat., April 28: Hogarth Exhibition at the Tate Britain. I had been looking forward to this comprehensive exhibit of a major 18th century artist (painter, engraver) since I booked my trip back in January. The original plan was to go with Nicole, which is why I waited until the second-last day to head down, but Nicole couldn't make it so I went by myself.The gallery was packed with people trying to get into the exhibit, but with a Tate Membership card, I got to walk right in (and for free!). Seeing pictoral series of The Harlot's Progress, The Rake's Progress, and Marriage à la Mode was a treat. The paintings are a lot bigger than any reproductions in anthologies, meaning I could make out more detail. It was also useful to see the two painted series (Rake and Marriage) in colour. The exhibit also featured works by Hogarth's contemporaries, including two of Joseph Highmore's Scenes from Pamela paintings, a fact which I think only Karine will appreciate.
Sun., April 29: Syon Park with Nicole. Again, no interior photos allowed and again, I bought the illustrated guide. Stunning interiors, particularly the rooms designed by 18th century architect Robert Adam.
What is there to say about an architect and designer who thinks through every detail of a room, including the furniture, carpetting and ceiling? One of the best details was a hidden door at one end of the Long Gallery, which led outside. Spines of books were actually put on the door to make it blend it with the bookshelf around it. I feel bad for the books, but marvel at the ingenuity. More photos of Syon's grounds here.
After Syon, Nicole and I took the Tube into town and had a late lunch at Hyde Park (yes, my life is good). It was a beautiful day in London and hundreds of people were hanging out, reading, rollerblading, biking. After lunch (and caffeine) we braved Oxford Street, the shopping district, to find me a replacement bag at Primark.The store (think H&M in trendiness and price range), which had been open only about two weeks, was madness. It took us five minutes to find the bag and at least 15 to line up and pay for it. The trouble was worth it, because the bag cost only £2.50, which was about all I was willing to pay for a replacement. It's made of cloth and quite spacious, as the umbrella indicates.
Today, I am tired. Organizing stuff for later this week, including making appointments to visit museum collections. Don't want to wear myself out, though, since I still have over two weeks left. If you have read this far, good for you. Thanks.